Category: Trips (Page 1 of 5)

Trip Reports

The Lost Sierra

April 19, 2019 / Rob / 0 Comments

by Rob McCormick

The north face of Mt. Washington as seen from the summit of Eureka Peak.

The northernmost portion of the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range ends in a stunning yet frequently overlooked region referred to as the Lost Sierra. The Gold Lake Highway (closed in winter) runs parallel to this range of peaks and lakes which is bookended by the spectacular Sierra Buttes to the south and Eureka Peak (formerly Gold Mountain) on the north end. The entire region is rich in mining history and was the epicenter of the gold rush in the mid 19th century.

Stamp mill from the mining era in Plumas Eureka State Park.

In the fall of 2014 I hiked the Eureka Peak Loop trail and saw terrain on Eureka Peak and neighboring Mt. Washington that I vowed to come back and ski in wintertime. The ski terrain on both mountains starts at the relatively low elevation of 5,200 feet which makes them unlikely objectives during leaner snow years. That said, the bountiful winter of 2019 stacked the region with a healthy snowpack and created ideal conditions for exploring the Lost Sierra.

Perfect corn in the east gullies of Eureka Peak.

I recently hooked up with local Dave Carmazzi and found good snow on the north face of Mt. Washington one day followed by perfect corn on the south face of Eureka Peak the following day. Eureka Peak can be accessed from the parking lot at the base of the old Eureka Ski Bowl or the museum at Plumas Eureka State Park. Mt. Washington can also be accessed from the museum or from Jamison Mine Road. Eureka Peak and Mt. Washington offer relatively easy touring routes and a variety of descents from breezy to rowdy. Both mountains have large avalanche paths (particularly in the Jamison Creek drainage between the two peaks) and should be navigated with caution or avoided altogether during dangerous snow cycles.

Dave Carmazzi enjoys 2,300 vertical feet from Eureka Peak into the Jamison Creek drainage.

The south face of Eureka Peak has plenty of tasty lines to choose from.

The simplest and safest option for storm days or backcountry newcomers is the old Eureka Ski Bowl which has the remains of two poma lifts and a modest ski lodge. The ski bowl is home to annual longboard races which pay homage to the miners who raced huge skis made from timber back in the mid 1800’s.

Abandoned poma lift at the old Eureka Ski Bowl.

Plumas Eureka State Park is located an hour north of Truckee via Highway 89 and about six miles west of Graeagle. From Graeagle, take route 506 past Mohawk to the tiny town of Johnsville. About a mile past Johnsville the road dead ends at a parking lot which is a popular starting point for snowshoers, nordic skiers and backcountry enthusiasts of all types. From the parking lot you can skin up Eureka Ski Bowl to Eureka Lake and Eureka Peak.

North Peak lies just to the northeast of Eureka Peak proper and can be mistaken for its true summit.

Rob McCormick on the south face of Eureka Peak with Mt. Washington in the background. Photo by Dave Carmazzi

You never know what you will stumble across in the Lost Sierra.

After a day of adventuring you can quench your thirst at one of several watering holes in the quaint and cozy towns of Graeagle and Blairsden. The Knotty Pine Tavern, Gumbas and the ever popular Brewing Lair are fine locations for sipping a drink while reminiscing the days highlights. If you are heading back to Truckee and want to break up the drive at the half hour mark you can hit Los Dos Hermanos in Sierraville.

Mt. Lassen delivers late season goods

April 1, 2015 / Rob / 0 Comments

The northeast face of Mt. Lassen as seen from the Devastated Area parking lot.

As the Tahoe ski season sputters to a finish, backcountry skiers looking for more turns should check out Mt. Lassen. The peak offers bountiful climbing and skiing options which allow you to ski wherever the snow is good. The road through the park is not open yet but it probably won’t be long. It’s currently about a 20 minute walk to snowline from the Devastated Area parking lot on the north side.

Chris Stewart approaches 9,000 feet on Mt. Lassen's north flank.

Chris Stewart approaches 9,500 feet on Mt. Lassen’s north ridge.

The northeast gully at sunrise.

Camping is not technically allowed at the Devastated Area so a travel trailer is a nice option.

The Lost Ski Area

December 9, 2014 / Rob / 0 Comments

Eureka Peak and Eureka Lake.

Eureka Peak, located about an hour drive north of Truckee, is home to some of California’s richest ski history and is still a great place to visit today. The gold rush of the late 1800’s brought thousands of eager miners to Plumas County in search of gold. During the winter months, mining operations slowed down and miners looked to winter activities to kill boredom. Longboard skis made from timber were used in the first official ski races in California in which skiers straight ran Eureka Peak reaching speeds of up to 80 miles per hour. Mining ore buckets on Gold Mountain (now Eureka Peak) were used by skiers as possibly the first ski lift in the world.

Poma lift and ski lodge at the old Eureka Ski Bowl.

Poma lift and ski lodge at Eureka Ski Bowl.

In the 1950’s Eureka Ski Bowl opened with a rope tow (later replaced by two poma lifts) serving the wide open slopes below Eureka Lake. Eureka Ski Bowl closed some time ago but a new cooperative group has been working to reopen it. They have raised $370,000 so far and have purchased the retired Mainline double chairlift from Squaw Valley. Work has begun on the lower terminal and will continue as funds permit. If the group succeeds, Eureka Ski Bowl will once again be a great place for families and skiers to gather and recreate. The lift will also provide great backcountry access to Eureka Peak proper which has everything from low angle glades to steep, north facing chutes and cliffs.

The north face of Eureka Peak.

Neighboring Mt. Washtington as seen from the summit of Eureka Peak. SBDC hopes to explore this zone as conditions permit this winter.

Neighboring Mt. Washington as seen from the summit of Eureka Peak. SBDC hopes to explore this zone in winter as conditions permit.

Stone hut at the foot of Mt. Washington.

With or without ski lifts, Eureka Peak is a great place for a backcountry adventure. Eureka State Park is located in Plumas County, about four miles west of the town of Graeagle. From Graeagle, take route 506 past Mohawk to the tiny town of Johnsville. About a mile past Johnsville the road dead ends at a parking lot which is a popular starting point for snowshoers, nordic skiers and backcountry enthusiasts of all types. From the parking lot you can skin up Eureka Ski Bowl to Eureka Lake and Eureka Peak. In the summertime you can take a 4 wheel drive road through the old ski bowl to Eureka Lake and the start of a great hike called the Eureka Peak loop trail. Visiting this part of the Sierra feels like discovering a time capsule of Sierra ski history and a way of life long forgotten.

Plumas Ski Club history of Eureka Peak

Fundraising for the Johnsville Historic Ski Bowl

Mt. Shasta sets up early

April 15, 2014 / Rob / 0 Comments

Mt. Shasta on April 11, 2014.

Ski mountaineers often head to Mt. Shasta in June and July for great weather and long ski descents. After this season’s far below average snowfall and early onset of warm weather, there is no better time to head up to Mt. Shasta than right now. We visited Shasta the weekend of April 12 and were not disappointed. It’s easy to see how many consider Mt. Shasta a spiritual epicenter of the planet. With it’s massive vertical relief and limitless ski lines, Mt. Shasta may just be the epicenter of the backcountry ski world as well.

Kyle O'Neal, Robb Gaffney and his 13 year old son Noah bridge the gap between Red Banks and Misery Hill.

Kyle O’Neal, Robb Gaffney and Noah Gaffney bridge the gap between Red Banks and Misery Hill on the upper flanks of Mt. Shasta.

Whitney Glacier as seen from the top of Misery Hill.

The summit plateau.

Kyle O’Neal slays April corn on Mt. Shasta.

The West Face of Mt. Shasta as seen from Hidden Valley.

The alluring yet mysterious southeast face of Mt. Shasta as seen from McLoud.

The alluring yet mysterious southeast face of Mt. Shasta as seen from McCloud.

Keeping it real at Grand Targhee

February 26, 2014 / Rob / 0 Comments

Mark Durgin digs in at Grand Targhee.

After nearly three sub-par ski seasons in Tahoe, a couple of friends and I finally decided to join the vagabonds and hit the road in search of powder. The plan was to select a date and leave enough flexibility to pick one of several destinations within a reasonable driving distance of Tahoe. We would study weather and snowpack forecasts at different resorts and hopefully zero in on the one with the best possible conditions at the time. We also wanted to choose a less popular destination which would offer more quality skiing with less competition for fresh tracks. We finally decided on Grand Targhee. Located on the western slope of the Teton Range in Wyoming, Grand Targhee had a reputation for good terrain, lots of snow and few skiers.

Tony’s Italian joint in Driggs, Idaho.

A twelve hour drive from Truckee landed us in Driggs, Idaho. Driggs is located just across the boarder from Wyoming and 2,000 vertical feet below Grand Targhee. The next morning we drove up the pass to the ski area as rain turned to steady snowfall and the snowbanks grew in height with every switchback. It had snowed twenty eight inches in the week leading up to our trip and eight inches new were reported overnight. We got into line at 8:45 with maybe thirty other skiers. Why were they so relaxed? Where was everyone?

Hucking one of the steeper zones off the Sacajawea chair.

We joined a local contractor called Big Dave on our first chair ride. He told us the dense fog we encountered about half way up was commonplace at Grand “Foghee”. He also said Targhee was notorious for under reporting snowfall amounts. He gave us some directional advice, told us the day was going to be sweet and disappeared into the fog. It took us a few runs to adapt to the snow and wind induced vertigo on the upper mountain but after that followed pure bliss. The upper snowfields were extremely smooth which made the skiing easy once you gained confidence in your lack of vision. As we descended below the clouds, visibility improved allowing us to pick up speed through Targhee’s widely spaced trees, chutes and rollovers. The snow conditions were dense, Tahoe-like powder which allowed for high speed and total control. Sheltered north faces had deep dry snow. Either way, it skied great and we had found what we came for.

Perfect glades accessed from the Dreamcatcher lift.

The ski terrain at Grand Targhee is serviced primarily by two high speed quads, Dreamcatcher and Sacajawea. Dreamcatcher runs 2,000 vertical feet to the summit of Fred’s Mountain which offers wide open cruisers and perfectly spaced tree runs ideal for powder skiing. The Sacajawea chair (Sac to the locals) goes about 2/3 of the way up neighboring Peaked Mountain. Sacajawea’s shorter vertical can be advantageous as it’s top station frequently sits below the layer of frozen fog that can hammer the summit of Fred’s. Sacajawea serves plenty of fun cruisers and some of Targhee’s steepest in bounds terrain. When conditions permit, you can hike above Sac to the summit of Peaked Mountain, which offers mellow pow runs to the south and wicked steeps to the north. More great sidecountry can be found on Mary’s Nipple, located between Fred’s and Peaked. If you want to travel back in time, try a few pow laps on the old center pole Blackfoot double chair. Though not the biggest or most challenging ski area, Targhee’s 2,500 acres provides more than enough quality terrain for powder pigs looking to get off the grid.

Ride uncrowded pow? Check!

Perhaps the most alluring part of Grand Targhee is it’s lack of crowds. We were there during a holiday weekend and still pulled into a half empty parking lot each day at 8:30. A few locals mentioned it was the most crowded day of the year despite no line being over five minutes long. More common was the scenario of skating right onto the lift. Apparently midweek days at Targhee can have less than 1,000 skiers at the entire area.

Another hectic weekend at Grand Targhee.

Sometimes the clouds lift and you can actually see the top.

Evening descends on the Targhee Village.

Another key ingredient to Targhee’s mystique is that it always seems to be snowing. Storms hang up on the western slope of the Teton range and dump absurd amounts of snow. Targhee actually receives more snow than it’s legendary neighbor Jackson Hole. It snowed off and on during our entire visit. On our second day the wind kept refreshing tracks so that some of our best runs came after 2pm. After skiing we retreated to the Trap Bar for live music as it continued to snow as hard as it had the entire trip despite nothing being forecasted for that afternoon. A local told us this happens all the time. He had trouble recalling the last half day of sun they had received.

Tailgaiting Targhee style.

Still snowing.

The icing on the cake of our trip was discovering the little things we hadn’t expected. We had one great meal after another. Snorkels deli, located steps from the Dreamcatcher lift, has fresh made breakfast and lunch options. In the town of Driggs we had great Italian food at Tony’s our first night followed by an outstanding meal at Forage Bistro our second night. Apres ski at the Trap Bar featured Shook Twins from Portland who played a dynamic mix of indie rock, folk and even some beat boxing. Targhee locals were beyond friendly everywhere we went. Tailgating in the Targhee parking lot is practically a religion and locals are more likely to offer you a PBR and tell you an insider sidecountry tip than shun you as a tourist.

Stay in the Trap Bar long enough and your skis may get buried.

Shook Twins from Portland rock the Trap Bar Apres scene.

Grand Targhee offers a ski experience rarely found today. The terrain and snow quality live up to it’s reputation among hard core ski bums. Cool locals, great food, and the down home charm of Targhee and town of Driggs take it to another level. If you find yourself missing something in your current ski scene or merely want to chase a snowstorm into the wilds of Wyoming, you should check out Grand Targhee.

Jason Mack Returns from Guiding Antarctic Ski Cruise

December 30, 2013 / Susan / 0 Comments

Alpine Meadows local, Jason Mack, recently returned from guiding the third Antarctic Ski Cruise. Read about his adventures with glacial skiing, huge ocean swells, penguins, seals and more in his complete trip log.

Getting High on Mt. Whitney

October 20, 2013 / Rob / 0 Comments

Mt. Whitney has the gradual ridge approach to the right, with Mt. Muir in the center.

Morning light on Mt. Muir (center) and Mt. Whitney (far right).

By Geoff Forcier

Autumn has arrived in Tahoe and some say it’s the best time of the year. Temperatures are starting to fall and crisp cobalt skies filter abundant sun. Good weather is perhaps the single most important factor in knocking off any alpine objective. Fueled by the seasonal slowdown, a fortunate permit acquisition and an unquenchable thirst for adventure, we packed our gear and studied our maps. We launched a classic Eastern Sierra mission from North Lake Tahoe to the 14,505-foot summit of Mt. Whitney, the highest peak in the lower 48.

Because of its location in Southern California, Mt. Whitney has no glaciers. Mt. Rainier is only about 100 feet lower than Whitney, but is covered with glaciers due to its northern latitude close to Canada.

Two and half hours after leaving Tahoe City, we set up camp outside Bridgeport, in a broad valley dotted with natural hot springs. We slept under the stars with impressive peaks cresting the western skyline. This type of landscape prevails all the way down US395. Towns like Lee Vining, Bishop and Lone Pine break up long stretches of desert highway and provide ideal starting points for alpine adventures.

Natural hot springs outside of Bridgeport, CA.

As we rolled south toward Lone Pine, we encountered heavy winds that created a massive dust storm across the valley, obstructing our view of the peaks. The bigger concern was how it would affect our summit chances. Would it blow us off the mountain side the next morning?

We took a fascinating side trip to Bristlecone Forest on the opposite side of the valley. At an elevation of 10,000 feet, the ancient forest is a worthy trip. At the top, the wind was virtually non-existent, just a whisper of a breeze. It felt strange to look 6,000 feet down into the valley engulfed in a churning dust storm.

4000 year old trees at 10,000 feet in the Bristlecone Forest.

Checking out 4,000 year old trees in the Bristlecone Forest.

As we got closer, we wondered how the 2013 federal government shutdown that had happened a few days prior would affect our trip. Would the mountain be closed? Rumors of law enforcement shutting down trail heads and closing roads loomed. It turned out that the roads and trail heads were open. No one was checking permits, we couldn’t even pick ours up because the office was closed.

Movie Road leads into Alamaba Hills, featured in hundreds of motion pictures.

Movie Road leads into Alamaba Hills. Whitney Portal Road leads to the Whitney trailhead.

We set up base camp in the Alabama Hills on BLM land west of Lone Pine. The landscape has spires, hoodoos and slabs interwoven with dirt roads and tracks leading to hidden camp sites in every direction. The site of countless western movie productions, Alabama Hills is featured in a Lone Pine museum celebrating its rich film history. It sits 4,000 feet below the Mt Whitney trail head camp site and is considerably warmer at night. With the wind gusting from all directions, we bailed on cooking dinner and took a short drive back to Lone Pine for Chinese at the cozy Merry Go Round Restaurant.

If it feels like your in a western that's probably because you've seen one of the hundreds of movies that have been filmed here.

If it feels like your in a western film that’s probably because you’ve seen one of the hundreds of movies that have been filmed here.

The wind kept up all night and we left the campground to began our climb at 2:30 am. When we arrived at the trail head, we were amazed to discover that there was no wind. The weather could not have been better for a summit bid.

First light on the crest leading to Mt. Whitney.

We traveled in darkness for the first three hours, following light from our headlamps, trying not to stumble on rocks, and occasionally stopping to gaze at the perfect starry sky and canyon walls. At 11,000 feet, the sun came up and we found ourselves in a rock amphitheater that comprises the east face of Whitney. We paused for photos and refueled before ascending “99 Switchbacks,” a seemingly endless series of short switchbacks that ascend the steep face to the Trail Crest. At the crest we passed through the saddle and got our first view to the west toward Kings Canyon, Sequoia National Parks and the towering peaks of the southern Sierra Nevada. We snaked our way around towers, or aiguilles, as we made the final traverse to the summit. Above 13,000 feet, we really felt the altitude but the lure of the summit pulled us up.

Ridgeline leading to the summits of Mt. Muir and Mt. Whitney.

Bad weather shelter on the summit of Mt. Whitney.

Approaching from the west, the summit of Mt. Whitney is a broad plateau with a small, historic, stone hut with a rescue cache and a refuge room for hikers stranded in lighting storms. Just past the hut, massive cliffs fall away for thousands of feet. After the obligatory summit glory photos, a rolly, IPA, bacon and eggs we headed down. The decent was long but pleasant as it had warmed up lower on the mountain. It was a little rough on the knees, but we got to check out the intricate rock walls of Thor Peak and the beautiful meadows and creeks that we missed in the dark on the way up.

Looking west of the crest toward Mt. Hitchcock.

Looking west toward Mt. Hitchcock.

Below 99 switchbacks it feels like you should be on the home stretch but really still have 3,000 vertical feet to go.

Thor Peak.

Back at the car we toasted to success with some Olys. We decided that although this was a 22-mile, 6,000-vertical-foot, monster day, it was the best overall hiking adventure that any of us had ever had. Back at Alabama Hills more glory photos, high fives and beverages went down with grilled steak and baked potatoes. Getting high on Whitney felt great.

Author Geoff Forcier with SBDC blogger Rob McCormick in the Alabama Hills.

PNH Tour Camp

June 15, 2013 / Susan / 0 Comments

When we last left you, we were waiting out the weather in Cordova and awaiting a clear window so that the helis could fly us up to tour camp.

We got that window on Thursday afternoon. Though the sky looked no less gray than it had for the previous four days, the pilots saw a hole and we got the word to grab our bags and get ready to load up.

It had been snowing and blowing for the past five days so the tents were sitting in holes so that only their tops were poking out. The scenery was spectacular, but we knew that the snowpack was volatile due to all of the new stuff. That afternoon, we made some cautious, low-angle runs. The snow was perfect pow and we relished being high up in the Chugach and scoping out the heli lines across the valley.

That night, we feasted on copious amounts of meat cooked up by our superstar guides, Jeff Dostie and Brennan Legasse. Later that evening, wind ripped through the mountains and we felt fortunate to be sheltered from it by our burly tents and the high snow walls that surrounded them.

The next day, the winds had scoured the snow and we spent most of the day hanging around camp and hiking short laps just above. Toward the end of the day, we headed out to see if we might find some soft stuff. We had a nice “walk,” but eventually decided that the winds were too cold and the snow was too scoured to make it worth going further. We headed home to enjoy our last night, feasting and imbibing with the group in the high alpine.

Sunset over the Chugach. Photo: Taylor Simmers

Heading out for an afternoon of glorious pow. Photo: Rob McCormick

Guide Brennan Lagasse gets barreled. Photo: Taylor Simmers

Tour Campers head into the zone. Photo: Taylor Simmers

Guide Jeff Dostie pops a slab. Photo: Taylor Simmers

The Chugach Mountains above Cordova, Alaska. Photo: Rob McCormick

Summit Fever

June 13, 2013 / Rob / 0 Comments

Mt. Shasta as seen from the Brewer Creek approach.

Dozens of climbers reached the top of 14,179 foot Mt. Shasta last weekend. It was 85 degrees on the summit at noon on Sunday. Getting an early start hugely increased the quality of both climbing and skiing as things got hot and heavy by mid morning. Great ski conditions were found on the massive snowfields accessed from Brewer Creek on the eastern side of the mountain.